Update axes.md

docs/hardware/axes.md

@@ -914,9 +914,6 @@ The two lead screws are connected by a closed loop GT-2 timing belt (6mm width,
 If you think the timing belt doesn't have the correct tension *even though the bearing blocks are adjusted and the lead screws do have the exact same distance towards each other*, you can add an adjustable tensioner/idler pulley for the timing belt.    
 
 You can either get yourself one of those aluminum plates or print yourself an according bracket where you then mount a pulley to. The mounting plate itself can then be mounted by screwing two screws into the two threads located at the blue plastic bar at the top.    
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 I'd suggest to add a teethed pulley to the inner side of the belt. Of course you can also use a pulley with no teeth and place it on the outer side where the belt doesn't have teeth, but in that case the belt will be bent against it's usual bending direction, which *might* affect the lifespan of it negatively.  
 
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@@ -1248,7 +1245,7 @@ In the following expandable textboxes you'll find some notes and instructions ab
 
     If you need to disassemble the z-axis lead screw system, there are a few things that one should be aware of. Besides that, the necessary steps are pretty easy and self-explaing, so I'll go over them just really quick.  
 
-    - First, you should somehow fixate the gantry of the x-axis to get the load off of the lead screw. You can do so by e.g. putting two soupcans onto the bed, each on one side (left/right) and then lower the gantry until it rests onto them. Or you can move the gantry up and fixate it with some velcro straps or cable ties as shown in the picture below. <br> ![Parked x-axis gantry](../assets/images/axes_x-gantry-cableties_web.jpg)  
+    - First, you should somehow fixate the gantry of the x-axis to get the load off of the lead screw. You can do so by e.g. putting two soupcans onto the bed, each on one side (left/right) and then lower the gantry until it rests onto them. Or you can move the gantry up and fixate it with some velcro straps or cable ties to the blue plastic part at the top.    
     - Now unplug the wire from the stepper motor, just to be on the safe side. The printer itself is also switched off of course.  
     - Loosen the two screws at the coupler which conects the motor shaft and the lead screw. 
     - Now you can turn the lead screw by hand to screw it out of the anti-backlash nut. After you completely took it out, dismount the anti-backlash nut from the holder at the frame as well.